Counting the waves…
Counting the waves…
You'll know you've left the tourist grid when the vendors switch from English to Spanish and the music shifts from reggaeton to calypso. Playa Portete curves along a residential stretch where painted concrete houses face the water and laundry snaps on lines strung between palms. The sand here runs coarser than Bonita's, studded with fragments of coral and black volcanic rock that the waves tumble smooth. Children dig moats around sandcastles while their mothers wade knee-deep, dresses hitched, gossiping in the shallows. The almond trees are the anchor. Their branches spread wide and low, roots buckled above the sand like arthritic knuckles. Families stake claims beneath them by eight in the morning on Sundays, marking territory with coolers and portable speakers. By noon the smell of fried plantain drifts from impromptu picnics, and someone's uncle is grilling chicken on a hibachi balanced on stones. The water stays calm inside the natural cove the rocks create—safe for toddlers, warm as bathwater by afternoon. This isn't the beach you'll see on tourism posters. The sand collects bits of driftwood and the occasional plastic bottle. But the women selling ceviche from Styrofoam coolers make it fresh that morning, the lime so sharp it makes your eyes water. And when the Limón families pack up at dusk, shaking sand from towels and folding chairs, you'll understand what a beach looks like when it belongs to the people who live beside it, not the ones passing through on ships.
Places, rentals, tours and events within walking and driving distance of Playa Portete.
Photos
Playa Portete is generally considered family-friendly with its small, more sheltered coastal setting. Swimming conditions are typically calmer than more exposed Caribbean beaches, though as always, conditions vary with weather and tides. There are no lifeguards, so supervision is essential. The local atmosphere means experienced beachgoers nearby can often advise on conditions. The beach's proximity to Limón means help is readily accessible if needed. Avoid swimming during storms or after heavy rains.
Playa Portete is tagged as good 'anytime,' reflecting the Caribbean coast's year-round appeal despite frequent rain. February through April generally offer the driest conditions and sunniest skies. However, the local character means it's pleasant for a visit any month, especially on weekday mornings when crowds are minimal. Weekend afternoons attract more local families. The consistent warm temperatures mean you can enjoy the beach even during rainier months, just expect afternoon showers.
Playa Portete is located just north of Limón city, making it very accessible. Taxis from central Limón are inexpensive and take roughly 10-15 minutes. Local buses heading north along the coastal road pass near the beach. If driving yourself, follow the main coastal highway north from Limón center; the beach is well-signed and known to locals. Parking is available along the roadside. The short distance makes it perfect for a quick beach visit while staying in Limón.
Being close to Limón city, most visitors stay in town rather than beachside. Small sodas or beach vendors may offer snacks, cold drinks, and simple Caribbean fare like empanadas or fresh fruit. For full restaurant meals and diverse dining, Limón center is just minutes away with everything from local Caribbean cuisine to international options. Day trippers often bring picnic supplies. The urban proximity means you have easy access to supermarkets, accommodations, and amenities in Limón proper.
Playa Portete's intimate, small-scale character distinguishes it from larger beaches in the area. It offers a more local, residential feel compared to tourist-focused Playa Bonita to the south. The beach attracts primarily Tico families and locals rather than international tourists, providing an authentic cultural experience. Its urban-beach classification means conveniences are nearby while still offering a genuine coastal escape. The scenery and local atmosphere make it ideal for travelers seeking authentic Caribbean coast culture without venturing far from services.
