Counting the waves…
Counting the waves…
The descent to Nonza beach is a commitment: four hundred stairs or a rough dirt track that switchbacks down cliffs streaked rust-orange and gray from mineral deposits. The village clings to the clifftop above, impossibly vertical, its Genoese tower standing watch over the western coast. As you descend, the beach reveals itself in pieces—first the dark curve of stones, then the startling contrast of turquoise water against black pebbles, finally the full sweep of this geological anomaly stretching north along the coastline. The pebbles are smooth and dark, ranging from charcoal to deep gray, each one tumbled round by centuries of wave action. They click and rattle with each surge, creating a distinctive sound you'll hear in your sleep afterward. The water is extraordinarily clear despite the dark beach, the seafloor visible well offshore where sunlight penetrates to reveal rocks and occasional fish. The stones radiate heat in afternoon sun, almost too hot to walk barefoot, but they give that heat back to evening swimmers when the air cools. Bring water shoes—extended standing on the pebbles becomes uncomfortable. The cliffs behind the beach rise in layered strata, their faces weeping mineral-stained water from springs high above. Old asbestos mine tailings contribute to the beach's unusual color, a legacy of twentieth-century industry now transformed into Instagram phenomenon. Late afternoon light turns the cliffs amber and sets the water glowing. The beach faces west, making it prime sunset territory, the sun dropping into the Ligurian Sea while the village lights begin to flicker on the clifftop far above.
Places, rentals, tours and events within walking and driving distance of Plage de Nonza.
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Swimming at Plage de Nonza requires caution. The beach features black pebbles and can have strong currents and waves, particularly when winds pick up. The shoreline drops off relatively quickly, making it less suitable for children or weak swimmers. No lifeguard services are typically present. The beach is more popular for photography and scenic walks than swimming. If you do swim, stay close to shore, avoid rough conditions, and be aware that the dark pebbles can become very hot underfoot during summer. Many visitors prefer to admire the dramatic scenery rather than swim.
The best time for photographing Plage de Nonza is during golden hour—early morning or late afternoon—when the dramatic black pebbles and cliffs are beautifully lit. Sunset is particularly spectacular, as noted in the beach's tags, with the sun setting over the Mediterranean creating stunning colours against the dark beach. Visit between May and September for the best weather conditions. Midday light can be harsh but emphasizes the striking contrast between the black beach and turquoise water. The view from Nonza village above the beach offers iconic panoramic perspectives perfect for Instagram-worthy shots.
Reaching Plage de Nonza requires descending from the hilltop village of Nonza, perched dramatically above. A steep path winds down from the village to the beach below—the descent takes approximately 20-30 minutes. The path can be challenging, with uneven terrain and significant elevation change. Wear sturdy footwear and bring water. Remember that the climb back up is strenuous, especially in summer heat. Alternatively, the beach can be accessed by the coastal road (D80), though parking is limited. Most visitors combine the beach visit with exploring the picturesque village above.
Dining options are located in Nonza village above the beach rather than on the shore itself. The village offers several restaurants and cafés serving traditional Corsican cuisine, often with terraces providing spectacular views over the beach and coastline. Most establishments operate seasonally from spring through autumn. It's advisable to head up to the village for meals, as there are no facilities directly on the black pebble beach. Bringing your own refreshments for your beach visit is recommended, especially if you plan to spend extended time on the shore below.
Plage de Nonza's distinctive black colour comes from the local geology and historical mining activity. The beach's dark pebbles are composed of serpentinite and asbestos-containing minerals from the nearby mountains. Former asbestos mining operations on the hillside above contributed additional dark material to the beach over decades. While the dramatic black colour creates one of Corsica's most iconic and photogenic coastal landscapes, some visitors are concerned about the mineral content. The beach remains a famous landmark and top Cap Corse attraction, drawing visitors for its unique appearance and stunning contrast with the blue Mediterranean waters.
