Counting the waves…
Counting the waves…
You park in the gravel lot beside the DOC shelter, where the track register is thick with signatures from trampers who've just completed the Heaphy's eighty-two kilometers. The beach begins fifty meters away, a wide crescent of dark sand where the Kohaihai River spreads into multiple channels before meeting the surf. The water temperature differential is noticeable—you can wade into the river's tea-colored flow and feel it warm against your shins before the Tasman's cold grip takes over. The beach curves south toward Scott Beach, backed by coastal podocarp forest so dense it appears black against the sky. Nikau palms cluster at the forest edge, their fronds rattling in the wind. At low tide, you can walk the firm sand for thirty minutes before the cliffs force you back into the bush. At high tide, waves push against the driftwood line and the beach narrows to a strip barely ten meters wide. Sunset here is a ritual for the trampers camped in the nearby DOC ground—they emerge from tents and the shelter, still wearing their tramping gear, and gather on the sand to watch the light drain westward. The Tasman glows copper, then pewter, then goes dark. By the time full darkness arrives, the Southern Cross is already visible above the forest canopy, and the surf's percussion continues its endless conversation with the river's murmur.
Places, rentals, tours and events within walking and driving distance of Kohaihai Beach.
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Swimming at Kohaihai Beach requires caution due to its remote West Coast location and exposure to Tasman Sea conditions. The beach typically has strong surf, undertows, and rips that can be dangerous even for experienced swimmers. There are no lifeguards or rescue services nearby. The water is cold year-round, and the beach's isolation means help is far away in emergencies. Paddling in shallow water may be safer than swimming, but always respect the ocean conditions and never turn your back on the waves at this wild coastline.
Summer months (December-February) offer the best weather for visiting Kohaihai Beach, with longer daylight hours and relatively warmer temperatures. However, the West Coast experiences high rainfall throughout the year, so weather can be unpredictable. Visiting during settled weather windows in spring or autumn means fewer crowds, particularly fewer trampers using the Heaphy Track. The beach is accessible year-round, but winter brings more storms and shorter days. Check weather forecasts before traveling to this remote location.
Kohaihai Beach is located at the northern end of the Heaphy Track, about 15km north of Karamea. From Karamea, drive north on Kohaihai Road (unsealed), which takes approximately 20-30 minutes. The road is generally suitable for standard vehicles in dry conditions but can be challenging after heavy rain. The beach is accessed from the Heaphy Track car park area. The drive from Westport to Karamea takes around 1.5-2 hours on State Highway 67, then add the additional time on Kohaihai Road.
Kohaihai Beach itself has no facilities—it's a truly remote location. The nearest services are in Karamea township, about 15km south, which offers cafes, a hotel, general store, motels, and holiday accommodation. The Kohaihai area has a Department of Conservation campground near the Heaphy Track entrance with basic facilities but no food services. Trampers should carry all necessary supplies. Day visitors should bring food and water, as there are no shops or cafes between Karamea and Kohaihai. Plan accordingly for this isolated destination.
Kohaihai Beach's location at the terminus of the renowned Heaphy Track makes it significant for trampers completing one of New Zealand's Great Walks. The beach represents either the beginning or end of a major hiking adventure. Its remote setting offers pristine wilderness scenery with dramatic coastal landscapes, native forest meeting the sea, and exceptional isolation. The Nikau palms in the nearby forest represent the southernmost palm grove in New Zealand. For those seeking true remoteness and untouched West Coast beauty, Kohaihai delivers an authentic wilderness coastal experience.
