Counting the waves…
Counting the waves…
You descend wooden steps to the sand, passing through coastal scrub that releases a medicinal scent when brushed. The bay curves gently, its eastern headland crowned with wind-sculpted ngaio trees. At your feet, the sand transitions from blonde to amber where tide pools collect. Offshore, the strait exhibits whatever temperament it woke with—sometimes glassy enough to mirror clouds, often corrugated with whitecaps that march toward the South Island mountains floating on the horizon. The swimming depends entirely on conditions. On rare calm days, you float in water cold enough to constrict your chest, watching waves refract around the rocky points. More often, the shore break arrives with force, dumping unwary waders and carving steep banks in the sand. You wade only to your knees, respecting the strait's power. Instead, you spread your towel near the stream mouth where toddlers build dams while their parents photograph the improbable vista. Above the beach, the grassy reserve hosts families who've claimed picnic tables beneath the macrocarpas. The playground hums with children's negotiations over the slide. You walk the shoreline toward the rock platforms where patient anglers cast for blue cod, their lines disappearing into kelp forests swaying in the surge. When the wind shifts southerly, everyone retreats simultaneously, an unspoken agreement that Princess Bay has turned moody.
Places, rentals, tours and events within walking and driving distance of Princess Bay.
Photos
Princess Bay is relatively sheltered compared to other south coast beaches, making it safer for swimming, though conditions depend on weather and swell. The cove shape provides some protection from Cook Strait waves, but surf can still be moderate to strong on rougher days. There is no lifeguard patrol, so swimmers should exercise caution and check conditions before entering. The sandy bottom and beach make entry easier than rocky alternatives. Swimming is best on calm days with light winds. Always be aware of rips and currents, avoid swimming alone, and stay within your capabilities.
Summer months (December to February) offer the warmest weather and best conditions for enjoying Princess Bay's sheltered cove and sandy beach. The bay's south-facing aspect means it can be cooler and windier than north-facing beaches, so calm days are ideal. Early morning and late afternoon provide beautiful light for photography of the dramatic coastal cliffs. Weekdays are less crowded than weekends and holidays. Spring and autumn can also be pleasant for scenic walks and photography, though water temperatures are cooler. The dramatic Cook Strait views are spectacular year-round, particularly on clear days.
Princess Bay is located on Wellington's south coast, approximately 9 kilometers from the city center, about 20 minutes' drive. Follow the scenic southern coastal road through Island Bay and Houghton Bay. A small car park is available at the beach, but spaces fill quickly on summer weekends—arrive early or use street parking nearby. Bus services run to Houghton Bay, requiring a 10-15 minute walk to Princess Bay. The coastal walk from nearby beaches is popular with hikers. Cycling is an option, though the hilly terrain requires moderate fitness levels for the coastal route.
Princess Bay has minimal facilities, with public toilets available but no cafes or shops directly at the beach. The small, secluded cove maintains a natural, uncommercialized atmosphere. Visitors should bring their own food, drinks, and supplies for beach visits. The nearest shops and cafes are in Houghton Bay or Island Bay, several minutes' drive or 15-20 minute walk away. Mobile food vendors occasionally visit during summer. For accommodation, holiday homes and baches are available for rent in surrounding areas, while most visitors stay in central Wellington for broader lodging and dining options close to the beach.
Princess Bay's dramatic setting—a small sandy cove framed by steep coastal cliffs and offering sweeping Cook Strait views—creates an exceptionally photogenic and romantic atmosphere. The sheltered beach provides intimacy and natural beauty ideal for couples seeking a quieter, more scenic beach experience. The dramatic landscape, particularly the distinctive headlands and native vegetation, makes it highly Instagrammable. Sunsets can be spectacular when weather permits, with the western light illuminating the cliffs. The relatively secluded location, despite being within city limits, offers a sense of escape and natural beauty that attracts photographers and couples year-round.
